GLAMFOX Retinol + Collagen Serum 50ml Korean Skincare Anti Ageing Wrinkles Lifting Pore Minimiser Night Moisturiser Rejuvenating Skin Plumping HIT

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Retinoids can cause burning, stinging and peeling when first applied,” says Dr Mahto. “Build up their use slowly – a few times weekly – until you are able to use them nightly. If the product makes your skin sore, give it a break; if not, you are OK to continue using it.

As for linoleic acid and the skin, LA is a really important little guy found naturallyin our skin. It is the most abundant fatty acid in the epidermis and it serves as a structural precursor for important skin lipids called ceramides. Knowing this, it will not come as a surprise that Linoleic acid has a central rolein the structure and function of stratum corneum permeability, aka healthy skin barrier.LA deficiency leads to an impairedmore permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect). Butylene Glycol– Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Its main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin, making the product spread nicely over the skin, and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. So, argan oil comes from the kernel of the argan fruit that comes from the argan tree that grows only in Morocco. The tree is slow growingand getting the oil is a hard job. The traditional process is that the ripe argan fruits fallfrom the tree, then goats eat them up and poop out the seeds. The seedsare collected and smashed with a stone to get the kernels inside. This part is the hard one as the seeds have extremely hard shells. Once the kernels are obtained, the oil is pressed out from them (the kernels contain about 50% oil). Moisturising hyaluronic acid and ceramides can help to lessen the severity of retinol side effects. However, Dr Mahto recommends waiting 15 to 20 minutes after applying your retinol serum before applying your chosen moisturiser, so as not to minimise the retinoid's efficacy. What can you not mix with retinol? Retinol and retinal (abbreviated from retinaldehyde) can be bought over-the-counter and are weaker than retinoic acid, which is generally a prescription-only agent,” she says.Below, you’ll find products with 0.15% retinoid for beginners, through to 1% blends for more experienced users. Is it okay to use retinol every night?

Madecassoside can also help in burn wound healing through increasing antioxidant activity and enhancing collagen synthesis. Asiaticoside was shown to increase antioxidant levels on rats skin when applied at 0.2%. Vitamin C is also a key component in helping your skin regulate collagen, thus making it effective in improving wrinkles and fine lines. As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. These antioxidants also protect skin against UV damage. As we wrote in our lengthy retinol description the problem is that the conversion is not terriblyeffective. The evidence that RP is still an effective anti-aging ingredient is not very strong, in fact, it's weak. Dr. Leslie Baumann in her fantastic Cosmetic Dermatologybook writes that RP is topically ineffective. Third, jojoba oil moisturizes the skin through a unique dual action:on the one hand, it mixes with sebum and forms a thin, non-greasy, semi-occlusive layer; on the other hand, it absorbs into the skin through pores and hair follicles thendiffuses into the intercellular spaces of the outer layer of the skin to make it soft and supple. First-timers and those with sensitive skin may wish to try a gentler retinyl ester – look for retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate in the ingredients list. What is the best retinol for beginners?

Water– Plain old water. Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. With over five years’ experience in beauty and health journalism, Florence has written for ELLE, Women’s Fitness, Sister Magazine, National Geographic Traveller and many more, with a strong sustainability angle thread through much of her work. Ascorbic acid is generally compatible with other ingredients. However, using ascorbic acid with other active ingredients might cause irritation. Two ingredients: copper ions and benzoyl peroxide, will inactivate ascorbic acid completely. Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients. Whichever retinoid serum you choose, start with a low dose of around 0.2% and increase the strength slowly, as side effects like tingling and flakiness are common.

Dr. Leslie Baumann wrote a great review of the debate and summarized the research available about retinyl palmitatehere. It seems that there is a study showing RP being photo protective against UVB rays but there is also a study showingRP causing DNA damage and cytotoxicity in association with UVA. Vitamin E helps stabilize and provide a boost in the benefits of ascorbic acid. It helps aid in UV protection but becomes unstable when exposed to UV and air. Your skin uses Vitamin C to build collagen. Collagen production plays a role in having a strong skin barrier and having plump skin. Don’t mix retinol with AHAs or BHAs because using too many active ingredients, too frequently, can spark sensitivity. For this reason, also be careful if using a cleanser with actives.Centella Asiatica also often shows up in products that try to treat cellulite or striae. Of course, it cannot make a miracle but it might have some effect via regulating microcirculation and normalizing the metabolism in the cells of connective tissues. Speak to a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or an underlying inflammatory skin condition, such as eczema, psoriasis or rosacea, as retinoids can potentially cause problems.” Regarding conversion, we can cite onlya manufacturers claimsaying thatEAC is metabolized in the skin into pure ascorbic acid (and the ascorbic acid content of EAC is very high - 86,4% - compared to the usual 50-60% Vitamin C content of other derivatives).

Going too strong, too soon, can cause dryness and make fine lines and wrinkles more pronounced – not the aim of the retinoid game! Patience is key. “You will not see results overnight and it may take up to 12 weeks before any benefit is noticed,” says Dr Mahto. What's more, the anti-aging effectiveness is not the only questionable thing about RP. It also exibits questionable behaviour in the presence of UV light and was the center of a debate between the non-profit group, EWG (whose intentions are no doubt good, but its credibility is often questioned by scientists) and a group of scientists and dermatologists lead bySteven Q. Wang, MD, director of dermatologic surgery at Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Centre. As for the three magic abilities of Vitamin C, we again mostly haveonly the manufacturer's claims, but at least those are very promising. EAC seems to have both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, and it's claimed to be able to boost the skin's collagen production. The strong point of EACthoughis skin brightening. On top of manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten the skin. Whatever your chosen dose, retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to harmful UV rays, so always use a suncream with SPF 30 or higher during the day. Should you moisturise after retinol?

Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give uspeople environmental protection. As for using ALA topically, we have to say that its role and effects seem to be less direct than with LA. ALA's main role in the skin appears to be modulating the immune response of the epidermis. This is probably helpful for inflammatory skin diseases but most studies examine ALA as an oralsupplement and not when applied topically. One exception, we could find, is a study that found that topically applied ALA has nice spot-fading abilities. One of the biological activities of thecentellosides isto be able to stimulate GAGs(glycosaminoglycans - polysaccharides that are part of the liquidy stuff between our skin cells), and especially hyaluronic acid synthesis in our skin. This is probably one of the reasons why Centella Asiatica Extract has nice skin moisturizingproperties that was confirmed by a 25 people, four weeks study along with Centella's anti-inflammatory effects.